Choosing the Right Anvil: Types, Sizes, and What to Look For
When it comes to blacksmithing, the anvil is your foundation—literally. It’s more than just a hunk of metal. A quality anvil gives you efficiency, control, and longevity in your work. Whether you're new to forging or upgrading your setup, choosing the right anvil is a decision that will shape your blacksmithing journey for years to come.
In this guide, we’ll break down the different types of anvils, their ideal sizes, what to look for in quality, and how much you should expect to spend.
1. Why the Anvil Matters
Your anvil is the silent partner in every forge session. A good anvil efficiently transfers the energy from your hammer into your workpiece. A poor one? It robs your swing, absorbs force, and wears you out.
Here’s what matters:
Mass = momentum – More weight means less bounce-back and more force transferred into the steel.
Hardness = durability – A hardened face resists denting and deformation.
Rebound = efficiency – A good anvil will return 80–90% of the hammer’s energy, giving your arm a break.
2. Anvil Anatomy 101
Most traditional anvils follow a basic structure:
Face: The flat surface where most forging takes place. Should be smooth and hard.
Horn: Used for bending and shaping curves.
Hardy Hole: A square hole for mounting tools like hardies or fullers.
Pritchel Hole: A round hole used for punching or drifting.
Heel: The back edge of the face. Narrower heels are good for precision work.
Base: The feet or bottom that transfers weight into your stand.
3. Types of Anvils (and What They’re Good For)
There are a few major anvil styles—each tailored to different kinds of work.
London Pattern Anvil
This is the most common type for general blacksmithing. It has a flat face, a single round horn, a hardy hole, and a pritchel hole. It's a great all-purpose choice for most hobbyists and professionals alike.Double-Horn or German Style Anvil
This type includes both a round horn and a square horn, offering more versatility for shaping and bending. It’s especially popular with toolmakers and bladesmiths.Farrier Anvil
Specifically designed for horseshoeing, farrier anvils are lighter and often include additional features like turning cams. They’re great if you work in mobile or rural environments.Post or Shop Anvil
These anvils are large, blocky, and usually hornless. Their main advantage is mass—they're built for heavy-duty striking and repetitive forging.Stake or Bickern Anvil
Mounted on a stake or bench, these are smaller, with tapered arms ideal for precision shaping, jewelry work, or working with thin metal sheets.
4. What Should an Anvil Be Made Of?
Not all anvils are created equal. Here’s what to look for—and what to avoid.
Recommended Materials
Forged or cast steel – Durable, great rebound, long-lasting.
Ductile iron with a hardened face – More affordable, decent performance for beginners.
Avoid
Cast iron anvils (without hardened faces) – These are often sold cheaply online or in hardware stores and may look the part, but they’re little more than "Anvil-Shaped Objects" (ASOs). They dent easily, absorb energy, and wear out fast.
Pro Tip:
Bring a ball bearing or small hammer when inspecting an anvil. Drop the bearing from 10 inches onto the face. If it bounces back 8–9 inches, that’s a great sign of rebound.
5. What Size Anvil Should You Buy?
In blacksmithing, heavier is generally better —to a point. A heavier anvil offers better energy transfer, but it also costs more and is harder to move.
Suggested Weights:
23–45 kg: Good for light forging, knife work, or portable use.
45–68 kg: Ideal for most hobbyists and small-scale work.
68–113 kg: Great all-around size for a shop doing regular forging.
113+ kg: Best for professionals and heavy work.
If you’re just starting out, aim for at least 100 lbs if possible. You’ll quickly outgrow anything lighter.
6. Features to Look For
Face Width: Around 3"–5" wide is common. Wider gives you more working surface.
Hardy Hole: A standard ¾" or 1" hardy hole lets you use common tooling.
Edges: Rounded edges help prevent chipping and marking your work. Avoid overly sharp edges.
Flatness: The face should be flat. Minor swayback is okay in older anvils, but avoid deep dips.
7. Price Ranges and What to Expect
Entry-Level ($100–$300):
These are usually cast iron or very small steel anvils. They’re fine for beginners learning the basics but may lack longevity and performance for serious forging.Mid-Range ($300–$800):
This range includes decent-quality cast or forged steel anvils. You’ll get better rebound, durability, and a more comfortable working surface. Ideal for intermediate or serious hobbyists.High-End ($800+):
These are premium forged steel anvils from trusted manufacturers like Refflinghaus, Nimba, and Rhino. They offer excellent rebound, build quality, and finishing—perfect for professional use.Used Anvils (Variable):
You can often find used anvils between $3–$6 per pound, depending on condition and brand. Look for vintage names like Hay-Budden, Peter Wright, or Trenton for quality craftsmanship.
8. Should You Buy New or Used?
Used anvils can offer excellent value—if you inspect them carefully. Here's what to check:
Face: Minor dings are fine. Cracks, deep sway, or weld repairs can be problematic.
Rebound test: Use a steel ball or hammer. Low bounce = trouble.
Edges: Chipped corners are normal and can be dressed. Avoid sharp cracks or delaminated areas.
Branding: Names like Peter Wright, Hay-Budden, Trenton, or Fisher are generally high quality.
New anvils are more consistent, often come with warranties, and don’t require as much guesswork. If you can afford one from a reputable brand, it’s a smart investment.
9. How to Mount Your Anvil
An anvil is only as good as its stand. A wobbly or echoing base will sap your energy and your results.
Stand options: Hardwood stumps, welded steel frames, or concrete blocks.
Height rule: Top of the face should sit roughly at knuckle height when your arms hang naturally.
Noise control: Use rubber mats, magnets, or chains to reduce ringing.
10. Final Checklist Before You Buy
What type of work will you do most—knifemaking, general forging, horseshoeing?
What’s the heaviest anvil you can move and mount?
Are you buying steel, ductile iron, or cast iron?
Does the face offer good rebound and a usable working surface?
Are the hardy/pritchel holes present and functional?
What’s your realistic budget per pound?
Conclusion
Your anvil is a long-term companion—choose wisely, and it will serve you for decades (or generations). Start with the best steel anvil you can afford in the 100–200 lb range, with solid rebound and a usable face. Avoid cast iron ASOs, prioritize quality over looks, and don’t forget to secure it to a sturdy stand.
If you're stuck between two options, feel free to reach out with the specs—we're happy to help you choose the right tool for the job.
If you would like to discuss a potential project with us, please do not hesitate to contact us.
