Hand-Forged Bevels: The Bladesmith’s Guide to Precision Work

Forging bevels by hammer instead of grinding is a skill that separates beginners from confident bladesmiths. When done correctly, it saves time, reduces wear on your grinder, creates better grain flow toward the edge, and gives the blade a hand-forged aesthetic that’s impossible to fake.

But forging bevels cleanly—without dips, wavy lines, or crooked profiles—takes strategy, not just strength.
This guide will show you exactly how to forge clean, straight, repeatable bevels right off the anvil.

Why Forge Bevels Instead of Grind Them?

Forging bevels directly into the blade has major advantages:

Less grinding later

You remove far less steel, meaning your belts last longer.

Better edge geometry

Hammered bevels compress grain and improve toughness along the cutting edge.

Faster shaping

You can create the rough knife profile in just a few heats.

More control

Forging teaches you to move steel, not erase mistakes.

Traditional craftsmanship

Hand-forged bevels have a signature look that grinder-only blades lack.

Tools & Setup You Need for Clean Bevels

Tools:

• 2–3 lb rounding hammer or a flat hammer with slightly crowned face

• Anvil with clean edges (sharp edges can dig in)

• Knife tongs that firmly grip the blade

• Straightening tool (your anvil face will do)

Forge heat range:

• Forge bevels at bright orange (~1,700°F)

• Avoid forging at dull reds—this causes warps, stress, and edge cracking

Before You Start: The Golden Rule of Bevel Forging

You’re not hitting “down”—you’re hitting inward and downward.

To move material toward the edge, the hammer face should:

• Strike slightly off-center toward the edge

• Kiss the steel at a shallow angle

• Blend the bevel gradually with overlapping blows

Flat perpendicular blows will flatten the blade—not create bevels.

Step-by-Step: How to Forge Clean Bevels Without a Grinder

Step 1 — Establish a Straight Spine First

Your blade must start perfectly straight before beveling.

If your spine isn’t straight:

• Your bevel will wander

• Your edge will curve

• You’ll fight the shape every heat

Straighten hot, often, and early.

Step 2 — Start With a Gentle “Initiation Line”

You’re not creating the full bevel yet—just the starting ridge.

• Lay the blade flat against the anvil

• Tilt it a few degrees toward the hammer

• Make a light pass with consistent spacing

This line will act as your visual and physical guide.

Step 3 — Forge the Bevel in Overlapping Passes

Tilt the blade slightly and strike with controlled, even blows.

Focus on:

• Hammer accuracy

• Keeping the angle consistent

• Letting the bevel “walk” up the blade slowly

Think of each pass as stitching a seam.
Overlaps = smoothness.

Step 4 — Flip and Repeat (Symmetry Check)

Forge the other side using the exact same angle.

If one side diverges or grows too fast:

• Pause

• Straighten the spine

• Match the angles again

Symmetry depends on consistency, not force.

Step 5 — Forge the Edge Thin, But Not Too Thin

Your hammered edge should be:

• Roughly 1–2 mm thick

• Straight

• Even along its entire length

Too thin and it risks burning or folding during heat treat.
Too thick and you’ll have to grind more later.

Step 6 — Straighten Constantly

Bevel forging WARPS blades. Every smith deals with this.

Straighten:

• At the end of each pass

• While the metal is still orange

• With light hammer taps on the spine or edge

Straightening early prevents major corrections later.

Tips for Cleaner, More Consistent Bevels

Use a lightly crowned hammer

A slight curve in the hammer face prevents edge dings and helps steel flow.

Work from tang to tip

It maintains proportion and consistent geometry.

Keep the blade HOT

Orange heats allow steel to move; red heats force it and create ripples.

Let the anvil do half the work

The angle between blade and anvil controls the bevel’s shape.

Don’t rush the tip

Tips overheat quickly—forge them with smaller, lighter blows.

Examine the blade edge-on

This view reveals wobbles and uneven thickness you can’t see from above.

Common Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)

Over-angling the blade

Leads to exaggerated bevels and paper-thin spots.

Fix: Reduce angle and use lighter blows.

Hammering directly on the edge

Folds and cracks steel.

Fix: Always strike slightly back from the edge.

Forging one side too aggressively

Creates banana-shaped blades.

Fix: Match the number and intensity of passes on both sides.

Flattening the bevel during cleanup

Ruins the crisp geometry.

Fix: Clean only with light, overlapping planishing strikes.

Final Step: Planish for Perfection

Once bevels are forged to shape:

• Use light, flat blows

• Keep the hammer moving

• Gently compress and smooth out the bevel

You should now have:

• Clean lines

• Uniform thickness

• Minimal grinding required

This is the hallmark of proper bevel forging.

Final Thoughts

Forging clean, consistent bevels without a grinder isn’t just a technique—it's a skill that elevates your craftsmanship. When you master bevel forging, you:

• Reduce grinding time

• Increase blade strength

• Improve edge geometry

• Develop hammer accuracy

• Produce blades with unmistakable hand-forged character

With practice and patience, your forged bevels will come off the anvil looking nearly finished.

If you would like to discuss a potential project with us, please do not hesitate to contact us.