How to Forge Iron Staples, Pins & Traditional Fasteners

In traditional blacksmithing, not every project is a grand gate or ornate railing. Some of the most essential pieces of hardware in history — and some of the most commonly forged items in a working shop — are the simplest: staples, pins, spikes, and fasteners.

These small components hold structures together, secure timber joints, lock doors, hang tools, and perform countless quiet jobs in both historical and modern builds. Forging them well requires precision, efficiency, and an understanding of traditional design.

This guide walks you through how to forge iron staples, pins, and classic fasteners, what each is used for, and how to craft them in a way that will last for decades.

Why Traditional Fasteners Still Matter

Before screws, bolts, and machine-made hardware dominated the market, blacksmiths produced all the fasteners a community needed. Their designs were simple, strong, and purpose-built.

Even today, hand-forged fasteners are preferred for:

• Heritage and conservation work

• Timber framing and carpentry

• Tool hanging and workshop fixtures

• Decorative or rustic installations

• Reenactment and period-accurate builds

They are also excellent training pieces for smiths of any skill level — small projects that sharpen technique, hammer control, and consistency.

Forging Iron Staples

What Are Staples Used For?

Iron staples are U-shaped fasteners traditionally used to:

• Join timber beams

• Hold fencing wire

• Secure tool racks

• Reinforce joints

• Anchor ironwork to wood or masonry

Their simplicity makes them incredibly versatile.

How to Forge a Traditional Iron Staple

Materials

• Square or round bar, typically 6–10 mm

• Mild steel or wrought iron for traditional builds

Step-by-Step

1. Cut to Length

Allow enough material for two legs and the crown (the U shape).

2. Taper the Legs

Forge square or round tapers on both ends.
A clean taper ensures easier driving into wood and prevents splitting.

3. Form the Crown

Heat the center and bend over the anvil horn or a bending fork.

Aim for:

• Equal leg lengths

• A tight, clean U shape

• Symmetrical tapering

4. Finish the Points

Dress the tapers with a file if needed.
For heritage work, leave light hammer texture.

Tips

• Keep bends crisp and centered.

• For masonry staples, forge shorter tapers and thicker stock.

• For tool-hanging staples, widen the crown for strength.

Forging Iron Pins

What Are Pins Used For?

Pins are used in:

• Hinges

• Gate and door hardware

• Traditional joinery (mortise & tenon or collar joints)

• Locking assemblies together

• Temporary fasteners in construction or rigging

They can be simple straight pins or decorative pieces with forged heads.

How to Forge a Traditional Iron Pin

Materials

• Round bar (6–16 mm depending on use)

Step-by-Step

1. Forge the Head

Upset the end of the bar to create mass, then shape it using:

• A bottom swage

• A rounding die

• The edge of the anvil for decorative styles

Common styles:

• Domed head

• Squat mushroom head

• Decorative pyramid or square head

2. Clean the Shank

Forge the shaft straight and size to fit its intended purpose.

3. Dress the End

Some pins remain blunt; others get a slight taper depending on how they’re used.

4. Optional: Shoulders

For hinge pins, forge a clean shoulder to stop the hinge leaf sliding too far.

Forging Traditional Fasteners

(Spikes, dogs, cotters, wedges, and more)

Traditional fasteners take many forms depending on the job:

Spikes

Simple square or round-shanked nails with long tapers.
Used for timber framing, fencing, and structural work.

Dogs (Timber Dogs or Holdfast Dogs)

U-shaped fasteners with long offset legs, used to clamp timber together.

Wedges

Thin triangular pieces for joining tenons or tightening assemblies.

Cotter Pins

Split pins forged from flat bar and bent to shape.

Straps & Plates

Flat fasteners used to reinforce joints or fix ironwork to wood.

General Method for Forging These Fasteners

1. Start With Proper Stock

Choose square bar for rustic nails, round bar for modern pins, flat bar for straps.

2. Upset or Taper

Depending on the design:

• Upset for heads

• Taper for points

• Spread the bar for plates

3. Shape the Profile

Use the horn, edge of anvil, or fullers to form bends or transitions.

4. Refine and Straighten

Even slight bends can cause installation issues — precision matters.

5. Finish

For a traditional look:

• Leave light hammer texture

• Apply linseed oil or beeswax finish

• For outdoor use, paint or oil-blacken

Why Blacksmith-Made Fasteners Are Better Than Store-Bought

Hand-forged fasteners offer several advantages:

• Stronger due to continuous grain flow

• Custom fit to the job

• Authentic appearance for heritage work

• Built to last — no weak cast components

• Zero reliance on threads that strip or rust out

Machine-made hardware simply cannot match the character or durability.

Final Thoughts: Small Pieces, Big Craft

Traditional fasteners may be small, but they showcase a blacksmith’s skill:

• Clean tapers

• Crisp bends

• Balanced proportions

• Consistency in repetition

They’re perfect projects for honing technique or adding authenticity to any woodworking or architectural job.

Whether you’re restoring a historic property, building new timber framing, or just enhancing your workshop setup — hand-forged staples, pins, and fasteners bring strength and craftsmanship to every project

If you would like to discuss a potential project with us, please do not hesitate to contact us.