Punch, Drift, Repeat: Making the Tools Every Smith Needs
Among the most useful tools in a blacksmith’s shop is the humble punch and drift set. Whether you’re making tongs, decorative hardware, axes, knives, or joinery, punches and drifts allow you to create clean, controlled holes without drilling. They’re fast, reliable, and have been used by smiths for thousands of years.
In this guide, we’ll walk through why you need them, the best steels to use, and how to forge your own punch and drift set—even with simple equipment.
What Are Punches and Drifts?
Punch
A punch is used to pierce a hole through hot steel. It removes material by displacing it, not by cutting it. Punches come in many shapes:
Round
Square
Rectangular / slot punches
Chisel-point punches
Slotting punches for tong blanks
Drift
A drift is used to size and shape the hole, pushing the hot metal outward. Drifts refine the hole after punching and help achieve the exact size or shape you need.
Punch → Drift → Functional, consistent holes.
These two tools are made for each other.
Why Make Your Own?
Store-bought punches exist, but forging your own offers major advantages:
Tailored to your work: Make them the exact size you need for tongs, axe eyes, hammers, or joinery.
Stronger than store-bought: Hand-forged tools allow better control of heat treatment.
Affordable: Made from scrap or inexpensive tool steel.
Skill-building: Punches and drifts teach tapering, shouldering, and heat control.
Once you make a good one, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it.
Best Steel for Punches and Drifts
You need steel that can take high heat, mechanical shock, and repeated hammering.
Recommended Steels
H13 — The gold standard for punches. An air-hardening hot-work steel that resists mushrooming and softening.
S7 — Shock-resistant, ideal for impact tools.
O1 or 5160 — Good choices if you avoid overheating; oil-hardening.
Spring steel (automotive leaf springs) — Forgivable and widely available.
If using salvaged steel, test a small piece first—spark test and heat treat to confirm behavior.
Tools You’ll Need
Forge (coal, propane, or charcoal)
Anvil
Hammer (cross-peen or rounding hammer)
Tongs
Vise
Grinder or file
Heat-treating oil (if using O1/5160)
Wire brush
A hardy block or bolster plate (optional, but useful)
Forging the Punch
1. Cut your stock
Start with:
H13 or S7: 12–16 mm (½"–⅝") round or square bar
Length: 100–150 mm (4–6")
Shorter punches reduce leverage and fatigue.
2. Forge a gradual taper
Heat the working end to a bright orange/yellow.
Hammer a gentle, even taper about 25–40 mm (1–1.5”) long.
Avoid steep tapers—they mushroom and stick in the workpiece.
Your taper should end in the final punch diameter, such as:
6 mm
8 mm
10 mm
3. Dress the tip
Use a file or grinder to:
Smooth the working end
Add a slight radius to avoid sharp corners
Remove flats or facets
A clean tip means cleaner holes.
4. Add a striking surface
The top (striking end) should be:
Flat
Chamfered 45° around the edges
This prevents mushrooming and protects your striker.
5. Heat treat your punch
For H13 / S7:
Air cool from bright orange until black
No quenching needed
These steels harden in air
For O1 / 5160:
Heat the working end to critical temperature (non-magnetic)
Quench ONLY the bottom ½ in oil
Leave the struck end soft
Temper to a dark straw / blue
Your punch is now ready.
Forging the Drift
Drifts can be round, square, oval, or rectangular depending on use.
1. Choose stock size
For general round drifts:
12–16 mm (½"–⅝") bar
Length: 150–200 mm (6–8")
For slotted or tong-making drifts:
Use flat bar or square stock depending on shape.
2. Forge the taper
Heat the bottom end to a bright orange and forge a long, smooth taper.
Drifts need longer tapers than punches—this reduces stress on the workpiece and helps shape the hole gradually.
Taper length: 50–80 mm (2–3")
3. Shape the body
Keep the drift:
Straight
Smooth
Evenly tapered
Use the anvil face and horn to refine the shape.
For specialty drifts like:
Hammer eyes → Oval
Tongs → Rectangular / slot
Axes → Teardrop or wedge-shaped
Follow the geometry of the tool you’re making.
4. Dress the tool
Grind or file:
Smooth transitions
Remove forge scale
Chamfer the top edges
A clean drift prevents tearing the hole.
5. Heat treat
For drifts:
H13 and S7: Air cool
O1/5160: Heat to critical and quench the bottom third
You don’t want a fully hardened drift—it becomes brittle.
Just harden enough to avoid deformation.
Using the Punch and Drift
1. Heat your workpiece
Punching works best at bright orange / yellow heat.
2. Start the hole
Place the punch where the hole is needed and:
Tap to establish a divot
Drive the punch halfway through
Flip the workpiece
Punch from the opposite side
Punching from both sides prevents bulging and gives a clean, even exit hole.
3. Cool the punch frequently
Dip the punch in water between blows to prevent overheating and softening.
4. Drift the hole to size
At orange heat:
Insert the drift
Drive it through
Reheat between passes
Continue until the hole reaches the desired size and shape
The drift also cleans up ragged edges left from punching.
Suggested Punch & Drift Set for a Beginner
A great starter set includes:
Punches:
6 mm round
8 mm round
Slot punch for tong reins
Drifts:
10–12 mm round
Oval drift for tongs
Slot drift for tool making
Rectangular drift for hardware projects
With these, you can make:
Tongs
Hooks
Brackets
Axe and hammer preforms
Traditional joinery
Decorative ironwork
Final Thoughts
Forging your own punch and drift set is one of the most rewarding and empowering projects in blacksmithing. Not only do you end up with tools that will last for years, but you also build essential skills like tapering, heat management, striking, and heat treatment.
Once you’ve made a few, you can expand your collection to specialty shapes—and unlock more complex and satisfying blacksmithing projects.
If you would like to discuss a potential project with us, please do not hesitate to contact us.
